After we finished our escapades in Elam, we moved on in our vehicle to an oasis of sorts. The camp at which we stayed in Ngurunit was a pleasant place. Our accomodations were in Manyattas, which had cemented floors and plastic tarps for roofs. Inside, the manyatta was "wallpapered" with beautiful cloths from the Middle East. Compared to the desert floor of Elam, we were in the Taj Mahal -- we had actual beds upon which to lie our heads and our very, very sore bodies!
 |
Ngurunit Manyatta
|
 |
| A panoramic view of the camp at Ngurunit. |
It was nonetheless desert--river beds were completely dry and as our feet kicked about in our sandals, it really looked and felt like beach sand. We arrived late evening. Thinking I would enjoy a wonderful cleansing in the shower, but yet realizing, there is a water shortage in the north of Kenya, I headed for the shower in the darkness (for darkness comes about 6:00 p.m. on the equator). Imagine my surprise when the cold (yes there was no electricity here) water ran out in the mere 2 minutes I took to splash off my body dirt and my hair soaped up with no rinse water. Well, naked as a Rendille baby on the desert, I decided use up the drops of water dripping out of the shower tank by the astounding force of gravity and try to get as much soap out as I could, and live with it. Yes.....after 3 more days in the wilds of Kenya my hair began to stick out at odd angles with all the unwashed shampoo stuck in my hair. I at least felt better even if I looked very mod with my spikey hair.
 |
| Shower which ran out of cold water--yes the tank was dry! |
After a cooked supper this evening, we slept well. What more can you want out of life but a full belly with marginally cooked goat and a reasonably soft bed. The next day was filled with tons of activity (including diarrhea). We saw primary schools which had just been built (previous to this, there had been no schools for children in this area of the country). We visited a new and upcoming business -- women selling tea to passers-by; women selling baskets (they even came to our camp though we also visited the school at which their cottage industry was based). I kept trying to remind myself that I was in Kenya. But this wasn't the Kenya I knew and had traveled to so many times before. This was rural, remote, and I felt like I was in Egypt or Sudan or anywhere by Kenya.
 |
| The mama who made baskets that I bought |
 |
| A primary school we visited. |
 |
| A Swahili Lesson on the Board |
 |
| The mama who served us tea at the "chai cottage industry" |
During our stay, the women performed a song and dance for us which explained why they were working hard to make baskets, and why they wanted to improve their lives for their children. We all were privileged to stand up in front of the crowd of women after they danced at which time we all said we admired their hard work, the beauty of their baskets, and that they cared so deeply for their children.
 |
| Josie with some of the kids who posed with us all along our walks |
We also had a wonderful "sightseeing walk" up a small mountain - granite rock was what it was. Reminded me of climbing Stone Mountain in Georgia. But we had majestic views of Mount Poi (a mountain which rock climbers and repellers trek to here in the north land). It was windy up on the rock--it seemed always to me that the wind NEVER stopped howling about our heads. I gave up on having lovely looking hair (as did Josie) soon into this trip.
 |
| Tom standing on the granite rock enjoying the view of Mt. Poi |
A picture of the Sunset in the Mountains of Ngurunit at the sightseeing spot where we veiwed Mt. Poi.
One of the things that I remarked on at Ngurunit was the absolute lack of water. Yes, somewhere they dug up enough water for us to take marginal showers, but there was no water for drinking. The local folks weren't bathing in it. And after about 5 days without a proper bath, I decided humans don't need to bathe---it's a luxury we believe we need. In the north of Kenya, you begin to feel that grit is proper...that nails should have dirt beneath them....that hair should be let to grow out long and pasted up into a bun on top of your head so you don't have to mess with it. Sherri kept commenting that this is the way life should be lived, where you walk with the rhythms of nature, where you live a less hurried life. Yes, there is some validity to this, but on the other hand, why is it that the Rendille warrior wanted to move to Nairobi and work for Tom? Why is it that the Samburu folks of Northern Kenya are building schools? .....people want to better themselves, to be healthier, to have access to clean water and peaceful lives without so much hardship. While I grew to be accustomed to dirt, I knew my time was limited here, and many days all I could think of is getting out of here. There is no idillic existence in a place where there is no water and not enough food. Ahhhh. But, look at the simple beauty of a small boy herding his goats. There is exquisite beauty in the simplicity of living with nature at the same time.
